The casual
subculture is a subsection of association football culture that is
typified by football hooliganism and the wearing of expensive European
designer clothing.The subculture originated in the United Kingdom in the
late 1970s when many hooligans started wearing designer labels and
expensive sportswear in order to avoid the attention of police. They
didn’t wear club colours, so it was easier to infiltrate rival groups
and to enter pubs.
Some genres that were popular among casuals in
the late 1970s were Oi!, mod revival and ska. By the 1980s, casuals’
music tastes were eclectic, with some enjoying pop groups such as Wham!,
ABC, The Human League, Spandau Ballet and Adam and the Ants. In the
late 1980s and early 1990s, many casuals were part of the Madchester and
rave scenes, and in the 1990s, many were fans of Britpop. There was a
strong crossover with rave culture, with many ravers wearing football
casual brands but distanced from football hooliganism. Madchester bands
sometimes wore casual clothing on stage and in publicity photographs, as
did Britpop acts such as Blur in their video for “Parklife”. Since
then, the most popular genre among casuals has been indie rock.
British football support has had a strong
fashion-led subculture element since the rise of the Teddy Boys in the
mid 1950s, and the origins of the casual culture can be seen in the mod
subculture of the early 1960s. Groups of youths who supported football
clubs began to bring their fashions onto the football terraces, and
certain clubs began to be known for their mod following (e.g. Chelsea
F.C. and West Ham United). This continued with the mod spinoff
subculture, the skinheads, in the late 1960s.
With the late 1970s mod revival, the casual
subculture began to grow and change after Liverpool F.C. fans introduced
the rest of England to European fashions that they acquired while
following Liverpool at their 1977 European Cup quarter final against the
French side St Etienne. Liverpool fans, who travelled all around Europe
in the late 1970s supporting their team, began arriving in England
wearing expensive Italian and French designer clothes, which were looted
from stores. At the time, many police forces were still on the lookout
for skinhead fans wearing Dr. Martens boots, and didn’t pay attention to
fans in expensive designer clothing. Liverpool fans would bring back to
England many labels that had not been seen in the country before. Soon,
other fans were clamouring for these rare items of clothing such as
Lacoste shirts and Adidas trainers which are still accociated with
Liverpool supporters today.
Clothing labels associated with casuals in the
1980s include: Edinburgh Woollen Mill, Fruit of the Loom, Fila, Stone
Island, Fiorucci, Pepe, Benetton, Sergio Tacchini, Ralph Lauren, Henri
Lloyd, Lyle & Scott, Adidas, CP Company, Ben Sherman, Fred Perry,
Lacoste, Kappa, Pringle, Burberry and Slazenger. Fashion trends
frequently changed, and the casual subculture reached its peak in the
late 1980s. With the arrival of the acid house, rave and Madchester
scenes, the violence in the casual subculture faded to some extent.
In the mid-1990s, the casual subculture
experienced a massive revival, but emphasis on style had changed
slightly. Many football fans adopted the casual look as a kind of
uniform, identifying them as different from the ordinary club
supporters. Brands such as Stone Island, Aquascutum, Burberry and
CP Company were seen at nearly every club, as well as classic favourites
such as Lacoste, Paul & Shark and Pharabouth. In the late 1990s,
many football supporters began to move away from the brands that were
considered the casual uniform, because of the police attention that the
casual styles attracted; several designer labels also withdrew designs
from sale after they became common casual uniforms.
Although some casuals have continued to
wear Stone Island clothing in the 2000s, many have detached the compass
badge so as to be less obvious. However, with the two buttons still
attached, those in the know are still able to recognise other casuals.
In the late 90s it was said that some police forces had tried
unsuccessfully to link Stone Island’s compass logo with
the neo-Nazi version of the Celtic cross. Because of this, new clothing
labels began to gain popularity amongst casuals. As with any designer
clothing a high amount of cheap counterfeit goods can also been
seen. Prada,Façonnable, Hugo Boss, Fake London Genius, One True
Saxon, Maharishi, Mandarina Duck, 6876, and Dupe have begun gaining
widespread popularity. Casual fashion has experienced an increase in
popularity in the 2000s, with British music acts such as The
Streets and The Mitchell
Brothers sporting casual outfits in their music videos. Casual culture
has been highlighted by films and television programmes such as ID, The Firm, The Football Factory and Green Street.
In the 2000s, clothing labels associated with
casuals have included: Stone Island, Adidas Originals, Lyle &
Scott, Fred Perry, Armani, Henry Lloyd, Lambretta, Ralph
Lauren and Lacoste. However towards the end of the decade many Casuals
have adopted a more subtle and underground looking ditching now popular
and mainstream brands for independent clothing labels such as Albam,
YMC, APC, Folk, Nudie Jeans, Edwin, Garbstore, Engineered Garments, Wood
Wood and Superga. However major brands such as Lacoste, Ralph Lauren
and CP Company are still popular.
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